What Can I Grow to Organically Feed Chickens?

Years ago, equally the cost of commercial craven feed skyrocketed, I establish myself in search of a more than creative option.

At the time, I experimented with rotating the flock on pasture and successfully cutting my feed toll in half.

Later on that, I experimented with gratuitous ranging and cut my costs by ninety%!

Finally, I ended up with a compost feeding arrangement that cut my chicken feed bill by 100% and gave me three cubic yards of compost a week!

My fascination with more natural (and much less expensive) feeds continues to abound and my list of artistic food sources expands.

In this article, I'll share with you many alternative food sources for your flock that will dramatically (if not completely) reduce your dependency on commercial grain.

In one case you're ready to implement one or more of these ideas you tin can download my free printable worksheet at the end of the commodity.

Before we explore the list of creative food sources, nosotros should look at some basic principles to reduce our demand for food in the first place.

Ways to Reduce Your Demand for Craven Feed:

Proceed only the chickens that are efficiently meeting your needs. If y'all just want eggs, then make sure you lot accept a lightweight, egg-producing brood like the White Leghorn. If you lot take a lot of access for foraging, be certain to become pure breeds that are naturally active and on the hunt for nutrient.

Cull inefficient and unnecessary flock members. This means you'll demand to butcher, sell or give away excess roosters, old hens (older than two.5 years) or those that are genetically undesirable (depression production, susceptible to affliction, ambitious, etc.) to minimize your input while maximizing yields.
Recall small. What'southward the minimum corporeality of chickens to meet your needs? The smaller your flock, the easier information technology will be to maintain from creative resources.

Ration. Believe information technology or not, your chickens can eat besides much! This isn't just a problem for the budget; it can actually decrease egg production. I encourage experimentation with your chickens. You tin stop serving their nutrient "gratuitous pick" (free pick ways all mean solar day access to their feed) . Start rationing out ⅓ of a pound a mean solar day per chicken. Begin cutting back slightly every day until y'all notice a drop in egg production. At that bespeak, return to the amount of feed that didn't touch on egg product and go from there. I wouldn't ration their feed as they are growing. Once they kickoff consuming more than than 1/iii pound of feed a day, then you know it's fourth dimension to ration.

Don't believe me that they tin can get too fat? It happened to me. Lookout man my vlog episode, "Puting This Fat Hen Out Of Her Misery".

Creative Feed #i: Soil-Edifice Plants/Herbs

Why not feed our chickens and the soil at the same time?

Comfrey and stinging nettle are ii classic builders that many consider weeds.

These plants can certainly exist invasive, but if you plow that "problem" into nutrient (and medicine) for you and your flock, then the "problem" becomes a solution.

Comfrey

Comfrey is a must take found for the sustainable homestead.

Like the craven, Comfrey has many benign uses.

It's edible, medicinal, is a great nitrogen source for the compost pile, and it's a low fiber, high protein feed for chickens and other livestock.

Comfrey is like shooting fish in a barrel to grow (it can be planted any fourth dimension of the year that you can work the soil), and information technology will stay alive in extreme cold and heat (grows in Us hardiness zones three-nine).

Besides, comfrey contains high levels of Vitamin A and B12 that tin can contribute to those deep yellow eggs we all desire.

Hither's how to grow Comfrey:

Acquire the root or crown cuttings. I buy my comfrey from a fellow permaculturalist, Coe'southward Comfrey.
Coe's suggests you establish Comfrey in "'fertile holes" to get established, and it will thrive through the hottest summer or coldest winter. Comfrey needs three foot spacing for proper root evolution and the highest yields. Strong, mature plants on a three-pes grid will have the larger exterior leaves touching the adjacent plants after four to five weeks growth.
Harvest the constitute up to eight times a twelvemonth by cutting down to two inches from the footing.

Stinging Nettle

What many might phone call a noxious weed, I consider an abundant and consistent food source. This "invasive" plant is medicinal, edible and when it'south dried it's upwardly to 40% protein and is a most splendid nitrogen source for mulching or compost.

Nettle grows well in US hardiness zones 3-9. For more than info on this plant click here.

Here's how to grow Stinging Nettles:

Chances are yous already have it. In that case, detect information technology and transplant it to where you lot want it.

Collect the mature seed heads and drop them anywhere you desire nettles to grow.

If yous don't already have the plant, y'all tin can easily purchase the seeds.

As you lot tin can come across, comfrey and nettle are two bang-up resources for the homestead.

Be sure to stay on acme of your management to go on them at bay.

Fifty-fifty if you lot don't need all of information technology's natural bounty during the growing season for feed, you lot could certainly apply it in the compost pile, or even cutting information technology and dry it out for hay!

Artistic Feed #2: Fauna Carcasses

Whether it be killed predators or fresh route kill, this can be a artistic means of providing loftier-quality poly peptide to your birds in one of two ways:

Feed Direct:

You must cut the carcass open up with a hatchet or something similar and so the chickens can easily admission the insides.

You may consider removing the carcass later on a couple of days to forestall illness.

Bucket Maggots:

You'll get more protein for your "cadet" if yous don't feed your carcass directly to your chickens, but rather feed your chickens the maggots that develop from the carcass! The flies volition use much more of the carcass than the chickens.

Drill dozens of ⅜ inch holes in a food grade bucket and suspend it in the air where your chickens will have access to it.

The flies will do their thing, and pretty soon maggots will be in search of some basis. Equally a upshot, they volition crawl out of the holes and drop right into your chicken run.

In my vlog, "Maggot Dispenser = Free Chicken Feed", I show how to build one of these things and explicate how it works.

Just be sure to use fresh carcasses to help prevent Clostridium botulinum that can cause a deadly illness in your chickens called limberneck.

In his book Small-scale-Calibration Poultry Flock author Harvey Ussery emphasizes not to include chicken slaughter waste that might include grain from their crops every bit this tin can be a likely source of Clostridium botulinum growth.

More info here.

Artistic Feed #three: Encompass Crops

Cover crops are plants used to prevent soil erosion, add nitrogen to the soil, amend/maintain soil quality, hold moisture, forestall weeds and repel pests and diseases.

Cover crops are a great garden strategy for the soil they can exist nutrient for our chickens equally well.

Here's how to exercise it …

Cover crops to overwinter your garden:

Constitute cereal rye earlier your first frost date.

This will "die" back over the winter and come up back in the leap.

In the spring, graze your chickens over the patch with a mobile coop and electric internet or cut and acquit to your flock.

Cover crops in the spring before you plant a garden bed:

Try planting yellow mustard, red clover, grain grasses, crucifers, alfalfa, and cold-hardy peas.

A couple of weeks before you lot need the bed, allow the chickens in to eat, till, spread, and fertilize.

In one case they're done, establish your seeds.

If your chickens didn't have time to consummate the task, only cease it by hand by loosening the soil with a wide fork and pulling upwards the embrace crop and laying it downward in identify every bit a mulch.

Cover crops in the garden between crops, during the growing flavour:

Use a fast growing comprehend crop similar Buckwheat as it can mature within six weeks.

Once you demand it tilled, bring on the chickens!

Cover crops for the plot later harvesting the main crop:

Instead of the traditional cover crops, try edible cover crops like autumn crucifers, mustards, raab, kale, rape, and turnips.

Harvest the crops throughout the fall and early winter for you and the chickens, or allow the chickens directly in the garden for a time.

Embrace crops while a ingather is still going (under-sowing):

This is especially useful if you won't have time to plant after your garden crop is done.

Wait until your garden crop is ⅓ of the way through it's growing cycle, so "under-sow" a encompass crop.

Attempt any of the clovers (white, sugariness, or red). White dutch clover is particularly hardy equally a living mulch that can even exist walked on!

Once y'all're done with this garden, cut and carry the produce and cover crops to your chickens or give them direct access.

Artistic Feed #4: Weeds

What we've come up to understand as "weeds" can also be a surprisingly good nutrient, and even a medicinal for both humans and chickens. Dandelion, lamb's quarter, stinging nettle, burdock, and yellow dock are some of the many weeds that can creatively feed you and your flock.

How to exercise it:

Step #i: Search and place some mutual edible weeds:

Dandelion

Lamb's quarter

Stinging nettle

Burdock

Yellow dock

Stride #2: Uproot with a potato fork or similar by driving the tool into the ground and loosening the soil around the roots (merely enough to pull out the weeds).

Footstep #three: Make clean them off and pitch to the chickens, roots and all. You tin can also put them through a grinder or cut up if desired.

Artistic Feed #5: Garden

The garden doesn't merely have to be food for you lot; it can sustain your flock also.

Consider some of the post-obit ideas:

Toss your garden trimmings to your chickens.
Offer your flock what'south left of your produce. Cut and carry the goods or let them access to the finished garden beds.
Grow produce, especially for your flock. Mangal and chard beet are great feeds, as well as salad bars, squash, and crucifers.
Cooked (non raw) potatoes could serve as a staple for your chickens.
Consider growing winter squashes as they store extremely well and tin can be used every bit wintertime feeds.
Since I have my wood stove heating my business firm during the wintertime, I cook hard foods like potatoes, broccoli stems, carrots, onion, etc., as I heat my house!

Creative Feed #6: Wild Seeds and Fruits

Wild seeds and fruits can serve the "grain" needs of your chickens better than store bought grain.

Gather wild seed or fruits (like berries) and plant to share the compensation with your birds.

Every summertime nosotros could hands harvest gallons upon gallons of wild fall berries, blackberries, and wineberries.

Artistic Feed #seven: Forage and Grain Crops

It's relatively easy to institute grain crops yourself if you select varieties like dent corn, sunflowers, sorghum or Amaranth. Follow the planting guides for any of these grain crops yous choose.

You lot could also grow great forage crops like Arrowroot, Chicory, Bok Choy, Buckwheat, Clover, Cocksfoot, Linseed, Lucerne, Millet, Forage Plantain, silverbeet, Alfalfa, Peas, Lentils, Chickweed, Comfrey, Dandelion, Nettles, Sunchokes, Berries (blackberries, raspberries, blueberries, etc.) and shrubs (Siberian pea shrub, etc.).

Choose a variety of these and plan a special patch for you and your birds!

Creative Feed #eight: Nut Trees

Gathering wild nuts, planting your trees, or giving them access to the forest tin provide a significant corporeality of poly peptide and fat for your chickens.

Forage or plant: oaks, beeches, black walnuts, pecans, and hickories.

Nuts from these copse are evidently not digestible whole.

I suggest one of two things, depending on the size of your flock or harvest: if it's a small harvest, just wrap your basics in some old jeans or durable cloth and smash with a small sledge hammer.

For larger jobs, consider running them through a feed grinder.

Creative Feed #9: Fruit Trees

Assemble wild fruit or plant your own. Consider loftier-yield and easy-to-maintain trees similar the persimmon, mulberry, paw paw and of course all your favorite apples, pears, peaches, bananas, etc. Harvest the produce for your chickens or give them admission to the fallen fruit.

Creative Feed #10: Capturing Garden Pests

Garden pests similar Japanese beetles and slugs are an amazing feed source for your flock.

How to grab and feed garden pests:

Become out in the forenoon with a bucket of water while the bugs are lethargic.
Locate the bugs and hold your bucket underneath them while you movie or milkshake the bugs off of the plant and into the bucket of water.
Throw the issues to your chickens, h2o and all.
Or, buy non chemical japanese bettle trap <<<< no lie, I just bought that 1 and I'yard gonna requite information technology a try. (yes, it's an chapter link).

How to debug the garden with the chickens:

Let your chickens supervised time in the garden.
Let your chickens in the garden for a express time towards evening. They volition naturally go abode at dark, and won't have fourth dimension to plough their attention from the bugs to your produce.
Chickens similar bugs more than than they like produce, then with timed grazing. Most of your veggies should be safe.
It's almost guaranteed that your chickens will get some of your produce with this method. In my experience, the debugging has been well worth the price of a few veggies.
If your garden is small-scale enough, y'all could protect your produce with chicken wire or similar and let the chickens constant access for issues command! Lisa, from Fresh Eggs Daily, does this beautifully.

Creative Feed #eleven: Pond

You tin can use a pond to grow both fish and aquatic plants to sustain your flock.

In return, your chickens provide fertilizer for the pond.

Duckweed is an aquatic plant that is piece of cake to grow and tin provide every bit much as xl% protein content for your flock (if dried).

How to use Duckweed:

Acquire duckweed specimen from another swimming or order online.
If acquiring specimen from a subcontract, y'all might want to ease its transition before setting information technology out in the "wild". Duck Weed Gardening put out a groovy resource on transitioning duckweed hither.
Fertilize the swimming with some chicken manure and stock the pond with fish (cannibal).
Harvest as needed, only try to maintain i.v to 2 pounds per square yard on the unabridged surface. If there's not enough, algae could grow and suppress it, and if in that location's too much, it volition be self mulch.
Dry the duckweed, every bit information technology'due south 95% water. What's left is upwards to 40% poly peptide!

How to use fish:

Stock fish for yourself and be sure to requite them all your leftovers and butchering "wastes".
Fertilize the swimming by throwing in chicken manure. If yous want to get extremely efficient, you could arrange your chicken house (with a slotted floor) and allow your chicken manure and whatever spilled feed to fall straight into the pond.
Grow fish specifically for your chickens. Harvest, cut them up for easier access and serve them to your chickens fresh (raw or cooked).
Great pond fish include catfish, bluegill, carp, bass, etc. If y'all're going to accept duckweed and fish, be sure not to take too many fish, or they'll consume your duckweed faster than the plant can grow.

Artistic Feed #12: Soldier Flies

Soldier flies look more than like black wasps that wing, just they have an interesting life cycle that can create a protein rich source of food for our flock.

You can grow your soldier fly grubs (up to forty% protein) out of kitchen wastes and get a loftier protein feed for your flock and rich compost in just a matter of days.

Hither's how it works:

Soldier flies are naturally found in US hardiness zones vii and college, but can exist introduced in cooler regions also.
The female person sets out in search of a nice identify to lay her eggs. Her ideal location is rotting vegetables or manure.
The eggs hatch every bit soon every bit 4 days, just no more than than three weeks.
These fatty larvae immediately begin to swallow the vegetables and turn information technology into soil.
Before these grubs plough into flies (virtually 10 days) they search for higher ground outside of their feeding ground.
Equally adults, their sole purpose is to breed and then lay eggs. They don't accept much fourth dimension, equally they'll just live 2-eight days! They don't even take mouths and will non consume during this period.
They die, and the cycle starts over again.
You tin can build or purchase soldier fly bins that agree your vegetable matter, attracting female soldier flies. Many designs even include a ramp which the grubs naturally climb, then fall into a collecting container…bright!

How to practise it:

Buy a BioPod. Co-ordinate to their website, "this can easily handle the daily food scraps produced past a large family unit – up to 5 lbs per solar day. It can even digest pet feces and most kinds of manure. For every 100 lbs of kitchen scraps, yous volition go 5 lbs of friable compost, a few quarts of nutritious compost tea, and approx. fifteen-20 lbs of self-harvesting grubs – which are the freshest fish, herp, and bird food."
Build one yourself from plans on the net. Here'south a relatively large bin, that looks reasonable.

In my vlog, "Bring on The Soldier Flies", I testify how I put mine together:

Creative Feed #13: Sprouting

By simply sprouting the grains/legumes you lot're already feeding your chickens, you can increase protein digestibility upward to 30%.

Not simply do yous increment protein, yous up the vitamin, mineral and enzyme levels!

You tin sprout seeds inside 2-four days using a bucket or bowl method or let them go a bit longer if you lot want some green fabric.

How to do the bucket or bowl method:

Buy your grains/legumes like peas, corn, oats, wheat, etc., whole instead of basis.
Soak the desired amount of seeds for 24 hours in a food grade saucepan or basin.
Pour out the seeds through a strainer or a bucket filled with holes and rinse thoroughly.
Set your newly rinsed seeds in another bucket and bowl and leave for some other 24 hours. If information technology'due south warm plenty (60 degrees Fahrenheit or higher), they will have already begun to sprout.
Try to use a fairly warm room like a spot near the furnace in the basement. The colder it is, the longer the seeds will take to sprout.
Rinse your seeds every 24 hours until all of your seeds have sprouted. This shouldn't take more than 4 days.
For a continual supply, use four buckets in a rotation – 1 for soaking and the other 3 for the rinsed seeds.

How to do the greening method:

Soak the desired amount of seeds for at to the lowest degree 24 hours.
Spread over a tray in a thin layer.
Cover with some organic matter like straw, dry leaves, etc., to forestall the seeds from drying out.
Water every solar day and harvest when they've reached the desired length.

Creative Feed #14: Compost

This has got to be i of my favorite creative feed sources.

Merely final summer, I cut my commercial feed cost 100% through an amazing compost organization.

I detailed the entire process and outlined how to do it here.

Artistic Feed #fifteen: Vermicomposting

Vermicomposting is the process of using worms to create compost.

Worms can be grown all year and they're a smashing source of protein and compost.

Depending on the size of your flock and your ambition you can practically grow as much equally you similar.

Full general instructions on how to vermicompost:

Get a bin. DIY from plans online or purchase i. You lot tin employ wood, plastic bins or similar.
Make sure the bin is ventilated. If you're using plastic or rubber, drill ⅛" holes throughout.
Estimate one pound of worms per square foot (surface area).
Use a embrace for the bin as the worms don't similar calorie-free and information technology keeps your moisture level regulated.
Identify the worm bin in a cool, shaded area.
Temperatures should be maintained from 30 to seventy degrees Fahrenheit for optimization
Keep at to the lowest degree four inches of moist cloth in the bin at all times.
Constitute bedding for the worms of shredded cardboard, paper, straw and something similar, then sprinkle with dirt and moisten.
Make sure you don't add much (if whatever) carbon to the mix, as you don't desire your fabric to heat upwardly.
You're pile should remain every bit moist equally a wet sponge. If you were to catch it, yous should be able to squeeze out a few drops of h2o.
Get your worms! Ruby Wrigglers work all-time and can be purchased online.
Add together food scraps all at one time, or at least once a week. Mix it in with your bedding if possible. The worms volition continually break this down. Don't use too much citrus, meat, dairy, or pet poop as it volition be hard to break down or toxic (in the instance of the poo).
If your bin starts to smell, ease off the cloth for a bit and allow the worms catch up.
Later on three-half dozen months information technology'due south time to harvest both the compost and the worms. Scrape the newer, unfinished material out of the way and dig out the compost. Y'all tin can sift out your worms from the compost and send them on their manner (to the chickens), or y'all could throw it all to the chickens (particularly if your chickens are in an expanse like a garden bed or pasture that could benefit from the compost).

How I practice information technology:

I dig a large pit my basement that is 4 x 8 feet and 16 inches deep.
I lay cinder blocks effectually the edges as an edge.
I employ a nonpressure treated 4/viii piece of plywood for the comprehend.
On one side of the pit, I lay manure and food scraps and water as I go.
Given our one pound per square foot surface expanse, I could put in as much as 16 pounds!
I put cardboard over this and dampen, so shut the chapeau and regularly check to add wet as needed.
When the worms are finished (3 – 6 months), I fill up the other side of the bin and the worms naturally migrate.
In one case the population of worms has grown enough for a worm harvest, I'll harvest the unfinished material (virtually half manner).
Since my chickens are always on futurity garden beds, pasture, or compost I tin throw them all of the textile (worms and compost).

The finished expert ends up being the BEST soil in the world. Here, take a look at my vlog, "Something's Wrong With My Garden" where I use vermicompost to try and salvage the garden.

Creative Feed #16: Solar Cooker

Accept advantage of the sun to cook harder-to-consume feeds like squash, pumpkins, potatoes, etc.

How to exercise information technology:

Build your ain or purchase your cooker. Wiki how has three promising design options hither and a quick search on Amazon revealed several cookers starting at virtually $100.
Get a recipe for what you want to melt. Solar Cooker has several that include corn on the cob, eggs, potatoes, and even bacon!
Cooking times will vary depending on your setup, sun exposure, temperature, and the corporeality you're trying to cook. I suggest small-scale and learning equally you lot go.

Artistic Feed #17: Nutrient Scraps

This has got to exist my second most favorite feeding method as information technology'south one of the easiest.

Nosotros eat a lot of whole foods, and then nosotros have tons of food wastes.

We keep a five gallon, food grade bucket in the kitchen at all times for our food wastes.

How to practise information technology:

Source, a food grade container, appropriate in size for your food wastes. This could be as unproblematic as a jar, nutrient grade bucket, or every bit elaborate as a store bought pick.
Feed the scraps to your chickens everyday!
What not to feed? I believe chickens have a sense of what they shouldn't consume. I encourage experimentation here. Offer it to them and see what happens. Obviously, too much of any 1 thing is a bad idea, if information technology's their but source of feed. If they have other options, they'll just exit the excess of what they don't need.

Artistic Feed #18: Grass

Only having admission to fresh grass can be 15-20% of a chicken's entire diet.

Throw in admission to wild seeds, bugs, and worms and yous could sustain your flock entirely on pasture/yard if your flock is pocket-sized enough and you have enough pasture/yard to rotate them on.

How to do it:

One selection is to totally gratis range, but y'all'll have to consider your predator threats, neighbors, and having chicken poop everywhere. I once grew Blackness Australorps for 16 weeks to swallow every bit meat grown on free-range (I only fed the 25 birds ii 50 Ibs. bags of feed over the start eight weeks of their lives). The complimentary ranging birds thrived and weighed out more than others I had grain fed free choice the unabridged time.
Information technology'due south best if you can rotate your chickens over pasture or yard to new ground every mean solar day, or at to the lowest degree every calendar week. You can use a chicken tractor for this or mobile pasture system with an electric net. I pastured 15 birds one summertime enclosed in a ane,700 square foot electric cyberspace that I moved daily. I was able to go their feed consumption downward to less than a i/10 of a pound of commercial feed before the lack of feed affected their egg production.
Information technology's even better if y'all can rotate your birds three days behind livestock. Flies will lay their eggs in the manure and at most the three-mean solar day mark, y'all'll have larvae for your chickens to swallow. Not only have y'all provided chicken food at this point, the chickens naturally spread the manure by scratching through information technology, and they aid control the fly population for the livestock.
If your chickens can't accept admission to grass, bring it to them in the grade of lawn clippings (if it hasn't been treated).
You lot tin likewise cut and store hay for winter feeding. Mother Earth News published a nice article about how to cut hay by "hand". You can encounter it here.

Creative Feed #19: Other Farm Products

Yous can certainly feed other farm products similar cow's milk and backlog eggs.

I personally brand an effort to feed our chickens milk from our family unit cow during the winter when "live" protein foods are harder to come up buy.

During the early bound, when egg production kicks back in but the greens and bugs oasis't returned notwithstanding, I feed those eggs to the birds.

Farm production ideas:

Milk from anything (cows, goats, etc.).
Offal from subcontract slaughter (things yous might not want to consume like beef natural language, middle, liver, etc.). Cheque with your butcher and run into if they'll provide "pet food" packaging of the less desirable products that are edible.
Bones from farm slaughter. They won't eat the bones themselves, but they'll pick them clean of their meat. Make certain yous inquire the butcher for the basic (they might not give them to you automatically). You could too make bone broth over your wood stove or with a slow cooker. You could and then feed this to your flock in a feed pan or pour it over some bread to soak in.
Eggs from your chickens or other poultry. I scramble mine and throw information technology directly on the footing, simply yous could certainly feed it raw in a feed pan.
Offering feathers from your slaughters as the chickens may consume them to improve gut function.

Creative Feed #20: Fermenting Feed

Just soaking feed for a mean solar day can break down the antinutrients (natural compounds that interfere with the absorption of nutrients) and will make your food more digestible, therefore making information technology a more efficient feed.

Alex Lewin, in his book, Real Food Fermentation says, "the procedure of fermentation can actually create new vitamins, specifically B vitamins and Vitamin K2, also as some types of enzymes."

How to do it:

Put 2 – 3 days worth of feed in an adequately sized, nutrient grade container.
Add water until you lot have at least two inches above the feed. You should bank check back in an hour to make certain your grain hasn't soaked it upwards. You'll ultimately demand at least an inch higher up the grain. It's important to take the water layer equally fermenting is an anaerobic procedure, which ways it doesn't need oxygen. Oxygen could cause mold growth.
If yous want, throw in a starter or add some pickle juice or similar to speed up the process.
Cover your container loosely with a towel or chapeau.
But 24 hours of soaking will break down anti-nutrient properties, making them more digestible, but y'all'll get-go to get the full consequence of fermentation within three days.
You can outset harvesting your grain with a strainer daily. As long as you add dry out grain and water to supercede information technology y'all'll have a continual menstruum.
The fermented feed should scent sour, but never moldy. If it gets moldy yous'll need to throw it out and start a new.

Conclusion …

That concludes my list of creative means to feed your chickens on something other than commercial feeds, simply I'chiliad certain at that place's more!

Some of these food sources mentioned can single-handedly eliminate your food bill forever. I suggest starting modest, then implementing as many of these as possible to create lots of back-up in your operation.

Ready to get started?

Download my printable worksheet on how to do each of these alternative feed methods.

If you liked this commodity, you lot'll love my most popular Youtube video:

How I feed my 30 Chickens on $i.25 a day:

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Source: https://abundantpermaculture.com/how-to-feed-chickens-without-grain/